American Samoa: What makes it beautiful

I just got back from a trip to American Samoa (May 14-17th, 2012).  I had forgotten how does it feel to be on a hot and humid climate.

American Samoa, May 2012

I like adventure books, and I’ve read several adventure books about sailing, from people who navigated the world on sail boats with their families, to Shakleton’s voyage of endurance to Antarctica, to the people who went on solo circumnavigation of the world on simple sail boats or on high technology sail boats with all sorts of equipment powered by solar and wind charged batteries.  They are all heroes to me. I once had a sail boat myself, with a couple of friends, but they did not share my concept of long trips, the boat was mostly for short runs up and down a very small portion of the Columbia river. They were happy with that. I wanted the adventure, as described in one of my early posts titled “I’d rather be sailing?” on this blog.

Pacific culture areas. Polynesians form a triangle from Easter Island to Hawaii to New Zealand

But my point in bringing this up on this post about American Samoa is that the Polynesians are a very special chapter on the virtual book of sailing history. They found their way to practically all the islands on a large portion of the South Pacific. About their sailing technique, some people claim they were actually drifters, arriving at these islands as passengers of the currents and wind directions. Others claim they were skilled navigators, mastering boat building and star and wind navigation, and interpreting current, waves and bird travel as navigational instruments.

Faga’alu, American Samoa, May 2012

I prefer to believe on the latter approach. But irrespective of which way was the correct one, they made it!  And they made it in a way that allowed them to successfully inhabit these islands. That is, they had to have some level of planning involved in this process and it worked. And also, they had the courage and drive to embark on such journeys that allowed them to travel on such a vast territory. For more on the very interesting history of the Polynesian peoples, check this entry on Polynesian Culture in Wikipedia. Wiki, by the way, is short for the Polynesian (Hawaiian) word wikiwiki, which means quick.

My point with the sailing story is that I greatly admire them for their hospitality, their kindness, their courage, but of course, primarily I admire their ancestors’ seafaring skills. Those skills have been transmitted orally from generation to generation.

The Island of Tutuila. American Samoa

American Samoa is formed by two sets of Islands. The Tutuila and the Manu’a Islands. In Tutuila is where most of the population lives.

The Manu’a Islands. American Samoa

Each time I go to Samoa I learn some more about their culture. I’m always disappointed to see so many Christian churches, a reminder of western colonization.  In general the church buildings are in better shape, with fresh paint and all, than the Samoan residents’ houses or public buildings. Something not so uncommon around the world.

One of the many Christian churches in American Samoa. May 2008

On my previous post about American Samoa (American Samoa, Places to Stay) I started it by showing the Hawaiian airlines Boeing 767 parked on the tarmac with the tall stairs attached to it. On this last trip I discovered the stairs have received some improvements. Now it is covered with an acrylic roof.

Two flights a week from Honolulu to Samoa (Hawaiian Airlines). American Samoa, May 2012

To fly from Honolulu to Pago Pago, American Samoa, it must be a lonely chunk of air space from the pilots’ perspective. That’s the feeling I get when boarding this flight, knowing we will be flying more than 2,000 miles with very few alternate airports on the way. Imagine how lonely it was when the Polynesians were sailing these waters a couple of thousand of years ago. And on the photo below, this is what the runway looks like. It is somewhat short, it is on a downhill, and it ends on the drink.

Close up of the runway. November 2008.

The plane usually lands coming from the position where I took this picture, going in the direction of the water, so it flies really low, over houses on approach (that are behind me from where I took this photo). The pilots have to make sure the plane touches ground on the beginning of the runway. By the way, on this last trip I found out they have built a better fence around this runway.

The runway at the Pago Pago airport, American Samoa, November 2011

The Tutuila Island, the main Island of American Samoa, is narrow and tall, about 20 miles long, on a band of less than 5 miles wide, and with very mountainous geography.  The airport area is basically the only somewhat flat area on this group of islands.

American Samoa National Park. January 2011

I hope to be back in Samoa and get to see more of these beautiful islands. Meanwhile, here are some photos of American Samoa from this last trip and from previous trips I made to Tutuila.

View from Le Falepule. January 2008 was my first time in Samoa.

Most everything arrive via container. Pago Pago harbor, May 2008

Typical bus for public transportation. May, 2008

Public School. Vatia, May 2008.

American Samoa National Park. May 2008

Pago Pago harbor, American Samoa. May 2008.

Incredibly beautiful flower. November 2008

The buildings below are where I work, when in Samoa. May 2012

I have many other pictures of beautiful locations in American Samoa. I will reserve some for other posts. Eventually I will put together a post about American Samoa food. And one other that shows some of the damage from the 2009 Tsunami. And as I mentioned before, I hope to one day be back in Samoa.

Thank you for reading.

Cesar

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Taking the 848 Streetfighter to my Pacific Ocean Loop

Everyone has a favorite road for sightseeing, to go for a drive or in my case to go for a ride. I created a 200 mile loop for when I don’t have a specific destination for a ride.  The loop is the destination itself. It starts at my house and soon I’m on nice country roads with very few cars and nice views.  Then some mountains on the coast range until I hit the Pacific. Then it goes for several miles of Hwy 101 with nice ocean views with a few options of good places for lunch along the way.  Then back through some more of the coast range mountains and more country roads before heading back home.

May 12th, 2011

Perfect for a relaxing and fun day ride.  It offers variants as well. Except for the basic route, I don’t think I’ve done two trips that looked exactly the same. This time, though, I went for the basic route. It was, after all, the first time I did the loop this year.

May 12th, 2011

The ride I report here took place Saturday, May 12th, about a week ago. The day before, May 11th, I had taken this bike to its first ride. Now it was time to go deeper. I started at about 10 in the morning. This Saturday was one of those typical days of Spring, when everything aligns perfectly well in terms of weather. It is bright sunny, and the temperature is on that magic not-cold-but-not-too-hot zone.

Getting ready to leave the house. May 12th, 2011.

Even before I bought it, I had been thinking about trying this bike on this loop, that I call my loop, for quite some time. You know, different bikes make you like different parts of a same route differently. As a matter of fact, it might make you see a set of curves for the first time while making you miss landscapes for the first time.  I started on the usual counter-clock direction by going north on Territorial Rd. towards the back roads that lead to Philomath. From there, there are several options. I took the easiest, as the bike is still on the 600 mile break-in period. Soon I was on 101.

Bike’s first view of the Pacific. May 12th, 2011.

This is the first time the Streetfighter saw the Pacific (at least when outside of its box). And the temperature continued to be ideal. In the summer, it is always cooler by the Ocean than in the Willamette valley. In the winter is the other way around. Today it was showing we are getting closer to the summer, it was cooler by the ocean.

May 12th, 2011.

On the Ducati Streetfighter forums and boards I’ve read posts of people complaining about “surging” at the 4,000 rpm level on the 848 SF. On the first 250 miles my bike was plagued by the same surge.  Someone had mentioned that turning the DTC off had solved this problem on his bike. Others are going the usual “full termi” route to solve this common problem. I consider it an absurd for someone to have to pay $2,000 to have a bike work as it should have worked from factory.

Nice views of the Ocean along the way. May 12th, 2011.

Many bikes of other brands, and which have fuel injection, have had similar problems. Welcome to the result of finding a way to make a bike perform and, at the same time, reduce fuel emissions or pass fuel emissions tests. This surge problem, which is basically an engine hesitation, is usually attributed to bikes whose motors are running very lean fuel to air mixtures. Of course, this problem can be compounded by other factors as well. But usually it is the result of fueling programming that needs to be adjusted for real life settings.  The people who buy into the “full termi” are actually solving the problem not by what the new exhaust brings in terms of freer flow of ehaust, but via the modified fuel map, the so called ECU kit, that comes with the Termignoni exhaust.

May 12th, 2011.

As I was riding and experiencing this issue, I was thinking about everything I had read on this subject. I remembered coming across the post of a person who turned DTC off on his 848 SF and claimed it worked for him. I had been riding the bike on DTC Level 8, the default setting. I had noticed the red DTC lights on the dash, the ones indicating the traction control had engaged, would come on very often. The tires were new, so they are supposed to be a bit on the slippery side.  I would see the red dashboard lights on almost every slow corner on which, off the apex, I got on the throttle with slightly more twisting of the throttle than my normal exit. Obviously Level 8 is very intrusive.  So perhaps DTC could be behind the surge or hesitation problem. So I stopped the bike and turned the DTC to OFF.  As I started riding again, I did not perceive any changes to engine performance, the bike performed as usual with the hesitation there, still especially notable at 4,000 rpm. So I stopped gain and turned the DTC back on, but this time I took it down to Level 7 (level 8 is the maximum, most intrusive level, the default setting from factory). No changes either, except that DTC would engage, but  a lot less than at level 8 for how I was riding.

At some point after having turned DTC off and changed to Level 7, I turned the engine off for about an hour when I had lunch. When I left the restaurant, I realized the hesitation was gone! I don’t know if it was taking it down to Level 7, or if it was that I had turned DTC off and than back on and then had the bike re-set its computer when I turned it off at lunch time. Could have been something else as well.

May 12th, 2011.

What matters is that the clear hesitation is gone!  Not even at the 4,000rpm level I notice anything. Brilliant. By the way, although some people say the “surge” happens at 4,000rpm, at least on my bike it happened all over the RPM spectrum that I could use (limited to 6,000 rpm). It just was more noticeable at 4,000 rpm when you are riding at a steady speed, especially when on 3rd or 4th gears.

Lunch time! Yachats, May 12th, 2011.

Back to the story, by the time I was passing through Yachats I was really hungry, so I decided to stop for a burger. After lunch, a little photo shoot session by the ocean. This bike is such a hot model.

May 12th, 2011.

There is no wrong angle.

May 12th, 2011.

It even makes me look good.

May 12th, 2011.

Well, not really.

Hey, what’s that small thing on the side of the tank?

May 12th, 2011.

A lady-bug, a good luck charm. I found one of these on the tank of my Triumph once as well. This is quite a friendly looking little bug.

Ladybug. May 12th, 2011.

Time to lift camp and head back to the fort. If you don’t know Hwy 101, take a look at the video of this stretch of road. This is just a small sample and not the best at it. The Oregon coast is phenomenal. But I should not advertise that.

I stopped by the Mapleton gas station to fill it up with non-ethanol gas.

May 12th, 2011.

The fuel light had come on at about 129 miles on the clock.  I took it really easy to make it to this gas station. I filled the tank at 155.7 clicks with 3.798 gallons. It makes for 41 mpg. Not bad at all.

May 12th, 2011.

And soon we were home. Mission accomplished. 218 miles completed, making a total of 338 miles, 262 miles to go for the first service and completion of the first step of the break-in period.

May 12th, 2011.

I had a work trip coming up. So it was good to arrive early, as it was time to rest and get things ready for my trip to American Samoa the following morning, starting at 5:30 am.

But before I end the story, here are some impressions of that ride. This bike made me see parts of this route I’ve ridden so many times but had missed or not paid attention to before. It made me understand the expression “to carve a corner”. Of course, I’m not talking here about race performance. I’m an average rider and I’m not taking this bike to above 6,000rpm, and I’m riding on public roads. But whenever the conditions were perfect and I pushed it to its 6,000 rpm on slower corners, she responded with more than what I had asked from it. I haven’t felt this good about my riding ability on the road. The merit belongs to the clever team who made the modifications to this bike to make it perfect for the average rider like me. But I’m sure it is not going to feel tame for the aggressive rider who wants to push it to its limit. After all, it has 132 hp, it has plenty of room for aggressive riding. I don’t have the skill nor the interest to make use of all of it.

Back home. May 12th, 2011.

This bike is growing on me. It is a Ducati, it looks great almost by default; every detail of its design makes sense and it is surprisingly balanced considering its nonconforming looks. But when you turn its motor on and you hear that rumble and then slowly get it going, there is that sensation of something that is rough on the edges, unfinished.  It feels more like a Formula 1 race car of the 60’s than a high revving F-1 engine of today. It won’t scream at you like sport bikes with an inline four do. It will pulsate like a heart at its peak performance. It is a more organic feel.

Cesar

Posted in Riding the Ducati | Tagged , , , , | 16 Comments

Ducati Streetfighter 848 – First ride

I was in the market for a bike that offered a different approach to riding than my current bikes have. I have a great gravel and dirt roads bike in the WR250R; and great touring capability with the Tiger 800XC. The Dakar was a middle of the road between these two. I was searching for something more street oriented.

At some point I was hopeful the Husqvarna Nuda 900 would make it to our shores. That would be one sweet bike with that modified Rotax 800 parallel twin motor bored to 900 cc and a 270 degree crank on a light body and a nice upright riding position. The Ducati Multistrada 1200 was another candidate, but it overlaps the touring use I already get from my Triumph Tiger 800XC.  I thought about the Monster 1100 evo. I even thought about the Ducati Diavel.

But then came along the Streetfighter 848. This bike caught my attention, especially for the changes Ducati made to the 1098 version of this bike. They put a Testastretta version of the 848 motor on this bike, with the 11 degrees valve overlap, similar to what is found on the Multistrada and Diavel, making it a unique motor on the Ducati line-up.

What I will tell you, though, is that these changes were expected to result on a broader range for top torque figures, making this bike, although still powerful, more relaxed for all types of riding. And they accomplished this.  Modifications were also made to chassis, handle bars, and brakes. All of these changes were designed purposefully to offer a tamer version of the 1098, a solid, middle of the pack naked bike, that was to be more versatile than its 1098 version. And that was accomplished as well, as I will report here.

European Motorcycles of Oregon had two of these models just taken out of the box and getting ready for the show room floor. A matte black and a fighter yellow. When I saw the yellow under the sun, I made my mind. It is gorgeous.  This thing looks great from whatever angle you look. It has a pearlescent finish to the paint, which highlights with different tones of yellow the nice angles of its design, under the sunlight. Photographs do not capture this well.

I picked it up late afternoon on May 10th and I only had time to ride it home, all of three miles of distance between my house and the shop.  The next day I left work earlier and took her for her maiden voyage, 120 miles through county roads, rolling hills in the area north and northwest of Junction City in Benton County.

For the first 600 miles I’m limited to up to 6,000 rpm on the motor. That means this bike can not be ridden properly. These low traffic country roads were perfect to ride at the motor break-in pace, keeping a close eye on the parameters of the bike.

My impressions on these first 120 miles, limited by what can be done below 6,000 rpm are that this bike offers a very solid line on curves. As if it is on rails, inspiring much confidence. That was something Ducati wanted to provide with the chassis changes made and it accomplished this goal, it appears.

The brakes are fantastic, offering great feel have very are solid actuation, and most importantly, they allow for gradual engagement when so requested. The acceleration, up to 6,000 is awesome. What will happen after that number?

The bottom line, this bike is plenty of fun. More than I imagined possible. And it is a beautiful machine.

The question is: will it be my favorite bike?

For a first step in answering this question, read my next report on this bike, when I took it for a 200+ miles loop. This next report will include a short helmet-cam video and more impressions on this bike, including my take on the Ducati Traction Control and fueling issues.

Cesar

Posted in Bike Reviews, Riding the Ducati | Tagged , , , | 10 Comments

A Walk Down Memory Lane (in Porto Alegre)

I appreciate the value of a nice walk. Of course, I’d rather be riding, but as any world observer would state, slowing down helps in paying attention to the details, they are the dots we connect to realize the big picture. I’ve been traveling too fast in my journey through life. It is great to slow down, and as an added bonus, we get a good workout at the same time.

The old docks waiting for new use. Porto Alegre, April 2011.

So it has become a tradition. Each time I go to Porto Alegre I purposefully set aside some time for walks in the city, to see the details of neighborhoods, things that I’m likely to have forgotten, or have missed to notice in the past.

DMAE Building, Moinhos de Vento. Porto Alegre, November 2009.

There are always surprises to be found, old buildings and structures I did not know existed, details I’ve taken for granted and also new things to be appreciated.

Building at Ramiro Barcellos Street. Porto Alegre, November 2009

This time around, one step following another, no planned route, and I found myself on the way to my old kindergarten and other surrounding areas, places that were once very familiar to me. Places that later in life I’ve traveled through by car many times, but had not stopped to admire in so many years.

Park on DMAE grounds, Moinhos de Vento. Porto Alegre, November 2009.

It all started when on a bright and sunny Sunday, I decided to try out the “Brique da Redenção”, a popular flee market that is set up on the same street every Sunday, in Porto Alegre.

Brique da Redenção, Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

It was such a nice day, hence it was very crowded. I walked quickly through the crowd.

Brique da Redenção, Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

I stopped to hear this family perform. These are the actual people who lived in this part of the world, before Europeans and Africans and now even Asians arrived to make up the nice mix that makes us Brazilians, true representatives of the world. Brazil, however, is one of the countries in South America where they native populations became the least visible. In a certain way, it is good to see them performing, although one wonder how they really live. Probably not too different a fate when compared to their North American counterparts, I believe. There is a long road for us to walk until we find a more integrated society that accounts for our varied cultures and interests.

I continued walking and soon found myself on the arches that frame the main axis of the Farroupilha Park.

Expeditionary Monument, Farroupilha Park. Porto Alegre, Apil 22, 2012

I remember being here, at a few different places in this park, as a child, with my mom and my sisters on weekdays.

Farroupilha Park. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

There were also picnics with the entire family on given Sundays at some places here in this park. Was this park always crowded on a Sunday as it is today? We used to live in this part of town, not too far from the park. I continued to walk towards the State University.

Universidade do Rio Grande do Sul, Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Over there, on that building (photo below), was the University Theater (Teatro da Reitoria), where I’ve seen many shows. I particularly remember the Argentinian poet and musician Atahualpa Yupanqui performing his wonderful gaucho music and poetry on guitar.  His music and poetry had an Andean flavor, which mixed contextual elements of the gaucho culture with that South American socialist, revolutionary ideology, that is identified with Che Guevara.  But most importantly, this theater reminds me of the Porto Alegre Symphony which played there every Sunday morning. My father took us there regularly and I learned to be quiet and only applaud at the end of a session. I remember a conductor, Izaac Karabischek and what I remember about him were his exaggerated movements. He was, later I found out, considered to be an excellent conductor and made history at the Porto Alegre’s Symphonic Orchestra (OSPA). And I remember the drum player, who parked his drum sticks under his arm pits in very mechanical, robot like movements, and stayed like that, a statue of sorts, on the sections of the music when the drums were not included.  I would wait for when drums were going to be played again to see him come out of the statue mode, play the drums a few times, back to statue.  The conductor’s movements, the drummer, made those Sundays more interesting.  I didn’t like classical music enough to enjoy those Sunday mornings.  Although it was better than going to church on a Sunday morning, I suppose.

Teatro da Reitoria (University Auditorium). Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Finally, my focus turned to this building.

Instituto General Flores da Cunha, my Kindergarten. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Jardim de Infancia General Flores da Cunha, my kindergarten. I’m happy this building is still there. This is the beginning of my student career. This is where the recording of events started in my life.  I remember the day I refused to stay in school when my father dropped me off and my father had to reluctantly drive me back home. He was really not happy, I remember that with detail. And the horror on my mother’s face when she saw me back home crying. I remember a girl named Deborah. I remember the Jacarandá trees that lined the drop off and pick up parking area. One of them is still there.

One Jacarandá tree left in front of the kindergarten building. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Although the tree looks worse for wear, it is still there. And I remember the fruits of this tree, and I found several on the ground. We called them “monkey ears” (orelha de macaco).

“Orelha de Macaco”, the fruit from the Jacarandá tree. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

But that fence did not exist then. Nor the graffiti on the building. One more thing I remember about this time was this drawing I made when I was 4 years old. For some reason, people thought this was special.

A drawing I made while in the kindergarten, when I was four years old.

Perhaps it was the choice of color? Orange and blue are complementary colors. And I repeat these colors on these two bikes. Although I just sold the BMW, I still have the blue Yamaha to compose with the Orange tiger. I still have that old talent, I suppose.

Orange and Blue. Proof that my talent was not incidental. 🙂

Perhaps it was the house in perspective, and in a cartoonish style at that? Perhaps it was me copying what I had seen of my fathers work as a civil engineer? I do remember the yellow/blue appendix to the house, though. That was something I know can not claim for myself. I copied that from my sister Ana Lucia’s drawings. I had drawn it without knowing what it was.  It was only later that I found out it was meant to be a walkway with a gate at the end.

Orange flowers, with Blue skies, Parque da Redenção. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

With all these good memories nicely framing my thoughts, I started walking through the park on my way back to the car that was parked closer to the beginning of the Brique da Redenção. I went past the Amphitheater Araujo Vianna which unfortunately now has a roof. I wish it had stayed the way it was, an Amphitheater. What I nice structure it used to be. We had been here for presentations, I think perhaps the Porto Alegre Symphony presented there a few times.

Araujo Vianna ex-Amphitheatre. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

And I was wondering about the “Parquinho”, the amusement park that was right there, at that corner of the park, at the entry point for the Brique da Redenção. I realized that earlier, just an hour earlier or so, I had just walked by it and not seen it.

Parquinho da Redenção. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Bu there it was, behind all the vendors. Popcorn anyone?

Popcorn Cart. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Colorful vendors.

Colors… Parquinho da Redenção, Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

I don’t remember if these rides were all the same.

Jatão. Parquinho da Redenção, Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Maybe I remember a carrousel.

Carrousel at Parquinho da Redenção, Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Or the Ferris Wheel.

Ferris Wheel at Parquinho da Redenção. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

But I do remember this one. By far my favorite.

The Austins at the Parquinho da Redenção. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

Although I thought the cars were Chevy 57’s, it is possible they were the Austins they have now. Either way, already at that time the cars were already old, from before my time.  And it is really nice that they were not updated with modern cars. These old ones are nice vintage cars and this is probably very valuable today. And come to think of it, my Grandmother Maria de Lourdes had a neighbor who owned a black Austin of this vintage if I remember correctly. Nice connection.

I bet I had a big smile on my face when I was in his place many years ago. Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

And to think one day I was this small, happy to be in this park, and full of dreams. I’m still a little kid inside, I was really happy to have made this walk down memory lane. And I still have many dreams lined up for realization. And now I can document, photograph, and write about things so anyone can read, including myself for y own records, which is an added pleasure to the list of good things I’ve acquired through life.

Horse on top of the Carrousel. Parquinho da Redenção, Porto Alegre, April 22, 2012

All that fun and it all happened while I was not riding. It simply was a walk in the park. And what a nice walk it was. Next time I’m in Porto Alegre I will have to go back to the park, there are areas I did not visit this time.

Thanks for reading.

Cesar

Posted in Porto Alegre, The Book, Travel | Tagged | Leave a comment

Porto Alegre

I just returned from a nice visit to Porto Alegre. Porto Alegre is where I learned about life. That’s where I was born. To me, it is the most important place in the world.

Porto Alegre in appropriate perspective to the rest of the world

For most people outside of Brazil, the “Porto Alegre” words do not ring any bells. Most people have never heard of this town of 1.5 million people (2010) the largest city in an important metropolitan area of 4.4 million people (2010), and the proud capital of the Southernmost state of Brazil, Rio Grande do Sul.

Porto Alegre, view of Downtown from Jacuí river. April 2012

Porto Alegre, simply stated, is not a destination town. It is not on international touristic routes. But it is a large city and has had its important moments in regional history. And not too long ago it became important in world history: for several years Porto Alegre was pictured on newspapers and articles world wide for its founding and hosting of the first set of years of the World Social Forum.

Porto Alegre as viewed from Guaíba. May 2012

Porto Alegre is not part of the iconic Brazil that triggers people’s imaginations whenever they hear the word Brazil. It does not have the landscapes that framed the Girl from Ipanema imagery, it does not have the tropical beaches, nor the coconut trees. Nor the humid sensations and sounds of a lush rain forest. Nor the gigantic favelas with houses built on top of each other on a steep hillside with an ocean vista. It is not a traffic-crazed Latin American mega-metropolis. Although Porto Alegre has some of that, on its own way.

View of Guaíba Lake from Lajeado Avenue. Porto Alegre, April 2012

When people in the United States or other places in the world meet me for the first time, conversations usually flow like this:

Where are you from?

Brazil, I respond.

Oh, nice. And where are you from in Brazil?

Porto Alegre, I respond to an interlocutor’s blank stare, an obvious reaction for having never heard of it before.

Brazil is getting increasingly popular. It is on the news frequently, and usually it is related to something positive that is taking place in Brazil. The economy is booming, political leadership on international matters is growing, and Brazil is getting ready to host the 2014 World Cup and 2016 Olympic Games.

Docks. Porto Alegre, May 2012

As a matter of fact, on a recent CNN survey, Brazilians were voted the coolest nationality in the world. http://www.cnngo.com/explorations/life/12-coolest-nationalities-earth-050844?page=0,1.  This is what the article summarizes:

Without Brazilians we wouldn’t have samba and Rio carnival; we wouldn’t have the soccer beauty of Pele and Ronaldo; we wouldn’t have the minuscule swimwear and toned bodies of Copacabana beach; and we wouldn’t have certain eye-watering procedures performed with wax.

Unless they’re using their sexy, laid-back, party-loving reputation as a cover for exterminating dolphins or invading Poland, then we have no choice but to name Brazilians as the coolest people on the planet.

But unless people have been to Brazil before, on business or as tourism, aside from São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, maybe Brasília and Salvador, people know nothing about Brazil outside of those iconic imagines.

Sunset in Porto Alegre’s Guaíba Lake. May 2012

Porto Alegre is not on the touristic routes for the Brazilians themselves, much less on the routes of international tourism.

Farroupilha Park. Porto Alegre, April 2012

But Porto Alegre is unique and it deserves to be known. Brazilians put Porto Alegre and the state of Rio Grande do Sul on another domain in terms of culture. For example, when they talk about soccer, they place us in the

Porto Alegre, Southermost Capital of a State in Brazil.

domain of Argentina and Uruguay when they describe the type of soccer played by Porto Alegre’s most important and internationally successful soccer team, Grêmio (and some people would claim its little sister, Internacional Football Club, is in the same category as well, but not really). But soccer is only an addendum to the many cultural differences between Rio Grande do Sul and Brazil.

Why is Porto Alegre and Rio Grande do Sul so different and unique?

I won’t claim I have the right answer. This could be about a combination of things. One of them could be the geography.  Rio Grande do Sul is the southernmost state of Brazil and shares borders with Uruguay and Argentina.

These countries were once the cultural and business centers of South America, namely by the great progress experienced by Buenos Aires and Montevideo, the capitals of Argentina and Uruguay respectively. In the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, when this region of South America was probably growing the fastest, Rio and São Paulo had yet to acquire the presence they have today in Brazilian culture and in international politics, business or tourism.

South America

Therefore, during those years, instead of Rio or São Paulo, people in my state looked at Buenos Aires or Montevideo to do business, to learn about the latest trend sets, to get higher education standards.

And economically speaking, the southern part of the state, the pampas, had much more in common to Argentina and

Gaucho, an Icon of Rio Grande do Sul.

Uruguay. I’m specifically talking about the cattle industry. And with it, I’m talking about the Gaucho culture. This is one important piece of this puzzle.

Another piece of the puzzle is certainly the massive German and Italian migrations that started in 1825 and fizzled out before the beginning of WWI.

The confluence of the gaucho and European traditions was or is one important element that makes Rio Grande do Sul a special and unique state, and consequently Porto Alegre, its capital, could be considered unique as well. And the food is one of its most significant cultural outcomes.

All around the world people go to Brazilian steak houses. What they don’t know is that this type of food, the barbecued meats matched to salads, polenta, and other European food staples, was born in Rio Grande do Sul. It is one of the most representative products resulting from the merge of the Gaucho culture with the Italian and German cultures. The Rio Grande do Sul’s melting pot. And voilá, we have Fogo de Chão and so many other internationally known steak houses. All of them carry in their DNA the sequence that identifies its origin in the state of Rio Grande do Sul. And Porto Alegre is where this cuisine was fine-tuned, made into a business model, and then exported to Brazil (well, I mean the rest of Brazil), and from there to the world. We may be proud that our specialty food is known as “Brazilian Cuisine” around the world. But we in Rio Grande do Sul know that it is Gaucho before it is Brazilian.

Picanha being served by Gaucho dressed waiter in Fogo de Chão Steak House. Washington DC, August 2010

Back to the conversation with people who meet me for the first time, after I say I’m from Porto Alegre and people react with that “what the hell is Porto Alegre” look, the conversation usually shifts to something else about Brazil. Sometimes I try to elaborate about Porto Alegre, describing it as the southernmost state capital of Brazil. And that it is near Uruguay and Argentina. And that people born in my state are the Brazilian representatives of the South American “Gaucho” culture. But then it invariably opens another can of warms.

Cowboys? Someone may ask or assume.

Well, not necessarily, I would respond.

It is not about riding horses, or ranching. It is about this very particular South American culture… Difficult to explain, it is something different. It is something special.  And because of that I now prefer to simply state that I am from South Brazil. And hope this is enough. Unless someone is insistent. Or I really want to have a conversation about Porto Alegre or the person may be interesting. Perhaps I should hand them my blog address and let them read this story here  and other stories and find the connections themselves.

In the end, one way or the other, my words can not make justice to what Porto Alegre really is or how it deserves to be described.  So, if you have read this far, you may as well be interested in seeing this video about Porto Alegre.

And this other video which has the “Porto Alegre É Demais” song. How do I translate this to English? Never mind, just enjoy its beautiful sounds. It is about someone describing or declaring his/her love to the city. One can do that, right? And you will hear many times the word Porto Alegre spoken by the beautiful voice of this singer. You will learn to say it in the Porto Alegre way after you see (hear) this video.

Thanks for reading about my original corner of the world.  Porto Alegre is far from Oregon, but I try to be in Porto Alegre at least once a year. It is worth the long journey to see my family, re-visit with my great friends, enjoy the sounds, smells and the old and the new vistas of Porto Alegre. I re-energize in that most important place to me. Porto Alegre, my home town, this is for you. Cheers!

Cesar

Posted in Porto Alegre, Travel | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

Spring Cleaning – The S100 Cycle Cleaner to the rescue

My bikes spent the winter “protected” by a thin layer of dried up mud. When finally an actual spring weekend arrived, instead of riding I took the time to work on the yard and clean the bikes.

The Triumph Tiger before the wash. Eugene, April 14th, 2012

In life we all want that magic pill, the easy button that will solve problems. Usually it is an elusive quest. But we all want to find it and because of that there are plenty of snake-oil type products being sold out there that do not accomplish the advertised outcome.  Cleaning a motorcycle is not an easy job, with all the difficult to reach areas where dirt and grease hide from cleaning.  But I’m glad to report that there is an actual easy button for cleaning motorcycles.

The S100 Cleaner

There may be other products out there, but this thing here, the S100, does the job very well. The bike must be cool, I usually rinse the bike first, then I spray the S100, then rinse the bike and that’s it.  A touch up with a damp cloth and a stronger de-greaser in some areas and it is done.

The cleaned bike, before touch up.

And Sunday it was the Dakar’s time to get into the action.

The Dakar gets cleaned as well

In the end, a fun spring weekend. Bikes are clean, grass is cut.

Two bikes cleaned

How much fun can you buy for 11.45?

With one bottle you can clean three or four bikes, maybe more

With one of these bottles you can clean a few bikes or the same bike a few times, depending on how dirty the bikes are. This time the little Yamaha was left behind. Sorry little guy, your turn will come soon.

This one still has the mud treatment

That’s all folks.

Posted in Product Reviews | 2 Comments

An Unexpected Trip to the Ocean

Dry weather on the forecast for the weekend and I get a call from Doug on Thursday asking whether I wanted to go riding. Riley suggests we go back to the High Pass area. He reports the snow is gone and he has found another route that gets us west of the closed gate on High Pass road. All I have to say is: Great! The ride was planned for Saturday. However, I wake up in the morning and first thing I see is my truck’s windshield with a layer of frost on it.

Frost on the windshield. Eugene, Saturday, April 7th, 2012

You must be kidding. I check my old analog thermometer and it confirms the unbelievable: it is freezing out there. While in the Midwest and other parts of the country they are experiencing a warmer than normal spring, we here in Eugene continue on this new trend of colder and wetter than expected seasons. Without getting on the global warming debate, I had read that on some analysis scenarios of global warming, the Pacific Northwest would actually get colder and wetter before getting warmer due to changes in Pacific currents.

It is freezing out there! Saturday, April 7th, 2012

As I get my gear ready and prep the bike, I keep my telephone close to me. What if Doug wakes up and calls canceling the ride? But the call never came. The original plan was that he would be by my house between 9:15 am 9:30 am (that means 9:15 on Doug’s style).  From here we would ride to Junction City to meet at 10:00 am with Riley at the same Chevron gas station we met him last time.

The Yamaha is ready to go, but still showing dirt from the last ride.

Doug arrives at 9:15 am as expected and comments on my dirty bike. Well, if I had the time that he has… I mentioned. But in reality, if I had the time probably my bike would still be the same, carrying mud from the previous ride, and the one before that. But I check fluids, and clean the chain. The important stuff is maintained well. So we met with Riley in Junction City and topped off the tanks.

Full tanks!

This time, no small talk. We got down to business right away. Soon we were on Grimes Rd. and a few roads after, one left, one right and we were climbing and got on this short cut to the left that would put us on the west side of the High Pass rd gate. And again, once we hit dirt Riley is flying and I have to concentrate to keep up with them.  This short cut was very slippery, for the first time I thought about getting a new front tire for this bike. With more than 5,500 miles on it, this tire is still the one that came with the bike.  And on this little road I could feel the front skipping every now and then. Also, you will notice, lots of branches fallen on the road. That is the result of all that snow of three weeks ago, and heavy rains, and strong winds. Welcome to our new weather pattern.

From there we connected to the road we traveled last time, the one with all the snow. At some point I stopped to take a picture of this creek.  This is the same creek as last time, I’m starting to recognize the road.

Same creek where we stopped last time. April 7th, 2012

Those two guys did not stop, they just powered up the road.  What a difference this time, a month ago this road had a layer of snow.  Eventually I reached them when they stopped to wait for me.

This is the same place where we turned around last time.  This time, no problems.

No trace of snow. April 7th, 2012

One month ago.

One month ago, lots of snow. Picture from March 4th, 2012

Now.

Not a trace of snow. April 7th, 2012

We continue riding and reach Upper Greenleaf Creek rd.

Upper Greenleaf Creek Rd. April 7th 2012

Here Riley’s bike decides to quit all electrics. The bike draws a blank. As he works on it, Doug finally has a chance to get his map fix.

Doug gets a map fix. April 7th, 2012

And I get to take some pictures.

Nice road. April 7th, 2012

We go down to Hwy 36 and take a break in Deadwood.

Deadwood. April 7th, 2012

Soon stories were getting pretty tall. I even heard about catching a 750 lbs. fish. And it was not a whale or dolphin, nor a shark.

“Once I caught a 750 lbs fish!” Deadwood, April 7th, 2012

We decided to carry on with the ride. Riley suggested we took some back roads all the way to the Ocean.  Let’s go. We took several back roads, mostly dirt roads. At one point we were chased by horses. Never seen such a thing, horses interested in motorcycles, just like dogs minus the barking.

More nice roads and eventually we get on a freshly graded and somewhat muddy road. It always takes me a few moments to get the hang of a new surface. You got to respect it. Soon I was comfortable and having fun with it.

Eventually we made it to Hwy 101.

Hwy 101, a few miles north of Florence. April 7th, 2012

When we set off for this ride I was not anticipating we would get all the way to the Pacific. But here it is, just across from Hwy. 101.  Looking north.

Somewhere north of Florence, Oregon. April 7th, 2012

Looking south.

Somewhere north of Florence, Oregon. April 7th, 2012

From here Riley took us on a new set of nice back roads, completely by-passing Florence all the way to Mapleton where we stopped for refueling. My bike arrived in fuel fumes after 120 miles of hard riding. Not bad, more than 60 mpg, as it took 1.95 gallons of fuel (tank holds 2.1 gallons).

Refueling in Mapleton, Oregon. April 2012

Did you notice that yellow sign? Yes, we are talking here about ethanol free gasoline. And I’m glad my tank was virtually empty, as the bike now gets a full tank of ethanol free gasoline.  If I had known this gas station had real gasoline I would had filled my Tiger last December when I rode by here because when I got home I parked the bike for the winter. It would had been better for the bike to have it sit with non-ethanol gasoline.

Mapleton gas station, Ethanol Free! April 7th, 2012

From here we go home via hwy 126, Penn Rd, Territorial Rd. and eventually we reached Eugene from the south side on Willamete rd. And from there I was home.

194.5 miles total (311km). April 7th, 2012

It was a great ride, 194 miles makes for a proper day ride. After so many gear shifts, my left hand was in pain, making me realize I need to put more rides on my belt before summer starts.

Glad to be home. April 7th, 2012

I was glad to be home after another cold day for riding. It was warm around noon time and when we were close to the pacific. But overall, this was a cold ride. It is really good to get in the house and start to feel warmer.

Can’t wait for Spring to be here!

Posted in Riding the Yamaha | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

A Day of Adventure at the Eugene Airport

It was the first day of Spring in 2012. Looking out the window in the very early morning of March 21st I was very surprised to see a wintry scene, instead.  Was I in Alaska? It was not a dream, or nightmare as I would be inclined to say after later developments in the day. I was really in Eugene and it was snowing like I had never seen in Eugene in the six years I’ve been living here.  According to the national Weather Service, in 73 years of record keeping this was the most snow Eugene has ever seen in one day, this late in the season. I was just waking up and getting ready to catch the 6:00 am flight to San Francisco and connecting from there to a flight to Washington DC, which is something I do a few times during the year.  Some thoughts rushed through my mind: Will I ever make it to the airport? How are the roads? Is my flight going to be okay? This is likely to be one of the most important meetings I will attend this year. Will I make it to my meeting in DC?

Aerial view of the outskirts of Eugene at 6:15pm, March 21st 2012

Flying out of a small town such as Eugene has its positives and negatives. An obvious positive is that there is no traffic to get to the airport, except if you encounter a slow moving train on a level pass. I usually call the same cab company to go to the airport, they already have my information on record, it is really easy and quick to organize it.  And they’ve always been punctual in picking me up.

One negative aspect is that the Eugene airport offers limited flight schedules and destinations. With United you will fly out via San Francisco, Denver or Portland. With Alaska Air (Horizon) you will first go north connecting via Portland or Seattle. And Delta uses Salt Lake City as its main connecting hub.  These three airlines are the main choices or only choices for regular daily flights to and from Eugene. There is another airline that flies a few days of the week. On the other hand, you get to know the airline staff at the check-in counters, and the security staff as well.

Weather is rarely an issue in Eugene. However, I’ve seen many flight delays due to the frequent fog situations in San Francisco. The San Francisco airport is one of our main connecting hubs, and fog usually translates into shutting down one of the two parallel runways, slowing traffic to half capacity.  Regional jets bound to San Francisco, such as the ones flying out of small towns such as Eugene, are the first to be grounded and delayed, priority given to the larger jets coming over from long distances across the pacific and across the world.

However, what I describe here is an exception to the rule.  These are the types of events that challenge smaller airports capacity: their lack of staff and equipment capacity to deal with out of the ordinary circumstances.  Which is okay, when it is rational to plan operations based on a proper study of probabilities. If you know for the case of Eugene that snow fall as what happened on March 21st is going to be a very rare event, why would you have the equipment and staff to deal with it as a normal and frequent occurrence? It is part of what one gets for living in a small town. You cope with the challenges in a different way. And that day, Wednesday May 21st, was an exceptional weather day. In the end most of the flights left with delays, but they were not long delays considering the circumstances. The airport was able to cope with the circumstances, with some delays.

My flight was the exception, however.  Some days it is your turn to “become a statistic”. A small initial delay created a snow ball, pun intended, series of related incidents and airline mishaps that led me to stay in the Eugene airport for an entire day. I’m reporting this for the historical aspect of the occasion. It is not meant as a complaint directed at any one. Although scenes of the original “Airport” movie came to mind, everyone at the airport and at the airline (United) tried their best to get us out of Eugene safely first, and as soon as possible. There were some stressful moments, some miss-communications, some fumbling of procedures, but in the end, it all worked out well for me, and I hope for all others as well. My appreciation goes to all the staff working that day for their great efforts to provide service in such challenging circumstances!

But let’s go back to the beginning. It all started the evening before. I usually call Oregon Taxi the evening before my flight to schedule a ride to the airport.  This time, and for the first time ever in my experience with them, the dispatcher told me they could not guarantee a pick up.  They explained that from 4:00 am to 5:00 am they already had 17 scheduled pick ups and only 10 cars were available. For the first time I would have to call another cab company. Instead, I decided to drive to the airport and leave the truck in the long term parking lot. I packed my bags and went to sleep.

The end of the Umbrella... March 21st 2012

As is my routine for these early morning flights, I woke up at 3:00 am and started the coffee maker.  I didn’t check the Eugene weather forecast. I checked the San Francisco area weather forecast as usual, because that is where the delays happen. No fog on the San Francisco forecast, so everything would go well. With a fresh cup of coffee I turned my computer on to check emails and do final preparations for my trip. That’s when I heard a noise, something hit the side of the house. I looked outside for the first time and saw all that snow! Incredible! The umbrella had collapsed under the weight of the snow and had fallen, hitting the house on its way down, and that’s the sound I had heard. If it weren’t for that I would not have looked outside until just before getting out of the house.

That would had been a problem, because it takes me 15-20 minutes to get to the airport on a normal day.  This could change drastically with all the snow on the ground.  I quickly got into action and was ready to go in less than 15 minutes. Although the truck is a 4 x 4 truck, the all-wheel-drive system of the Audi Quattro is a far superior system to tackle roads with up to 10 inches of snow. So I took the Audi. The drive was great, I love driving on fresh snow, by the way. I was driving at 45-50 mph on a carpet of 6-7 inches of very fresh snow. The 16 year old Audi was going great. Once I arrived at the more traveled roads closer to the airport I had to pass other cars and trucks struggling and going really slow. Close to the airport I found one of the Oregon Taxi cabs stuck on a ditch. I’m so glad I was not relying on them this time; I can’t imagine the chaos of drivers, dispatcher and customers, since they now had one less car working and those 17 callers, some of them I’m sure did not get their cab ride on time. I hope it got all sorted out well for everyone.

5:00 am - The old but mighty Audi Quattro, arrived at the Eugene airport. March 21st, 2012

During my drive to the airport I was having fun but I was also apprehensive, wondering what situation I would find at the airport.  When I lived in Ohio we were used to snow and snow storms. But here in Eugene snow being the exception to the rule, I was wondering whether airport staff and airline crews would be on top of things.

5:11 am - Passengers boarding Alaska Airlines flight to Portland. Eugene Airport, March 21st, 2012

But as I walked inside the airport I was pleasantly surprised to see that the operations were going on as if there was no snow on the ground, flights were boarding on time.  I had great expectations for this important meeting in DC. I relaxed, switched gears, and started to enjoy the snow as a novelty thing. I talked to security staff, the lady working at the newsstand, the airline staff, asked them whether they had been warned about the weather the day before. No, no one had been warned or informed about it in specific, and the ones who claimed to have had some information, mentioned that they were not expecting this much snow. Yet, everything was going fine at the airport. Besides the Oregon Taxi incident, things were going as usual, from what I could observe. Below is a photo of the turbo prop Embraer Brasilia 120 that makes the United flights between Eugene and Portland.

5:15 am - Ground crew setting up United flight to Portland under heavy snow, Eugene, March 21st, 2012

My flight boards slightly late, at 5:45am, not too bad, really. Everything is looking good, although the plane will need to be de-iced and this will delay things down the road. I can barely look out from the airplane window, so much snow is covering it. The cabin door is closed at 6:07 am and we are ready to go. That’s when the first step of the ordeal takes place.

Event 1:  6:15am, the tug that pushes the plane out of the gate spins its wheels, does not have enough traction to move the plane. Ground crew shows up with shovels to clear a path on the snow. After about 30 minutes of this effort we were finally pushed out of the gate.  At this point we are officially entered on the de-icing line, but the plane stays just off the gate, and not at the actual de-icing line.

7:49 am. Near whiteout conditions. We are still waiting for de-icing, just off the gate. March 21st, 2012

Day light is coming up, and for the first time I get to see what it looks like outside. We are number 4 on the de-icing line, which means last, there were only four flights departing at that time.  This small 30 minutes delay, becoming last on the de-ce line will become the incident that triggers a whole set of delays that will characterize this adventure at the Eugene airport.

Event 2: from 6:15 am to 8:30 am we experience the slow de-icing process at Eugene airport. De-icing on airports that commonly use this procedure takes about 15 minutes for a small regional jet.  In Eugene, and with the conditions we were encountering, this was more like 30 minutes for each plane. And only one de-icing machine was being used. We are still just outside the gate and the pilot turns the engines off to save fuel, otherwise, he indicated, we would have to return to the gate and refuel if it takes too long for us to be de-iced.

Just when it was our turn to be de-iced the machine runs out of de-icing fluid and would take about 25 minutes to refill. During this time, we are almost 2 hours inside the plane, and have only moved a few feet from the gate.  The time for which a plane is allowed to sit at the tarmac with passengers is two hours if food or water are not provided.

Airlines now face fines of up to $27,500 per passenger when a plane sits on the tarmac for more than two hours without providing food or water or more than three hours without giving passengers the option of getting off the plane. Airlines will also have to provide working bathrooms and medical attention, if needed. The rule applies to domestic flights only.

Event 3: 8:25 am, exceeding tarmac time.  Just about 2 hours on the tarmac, the captain announced that we needed to go back to the gate and offer passengers the option to get off the plane. I was hoping no one would deplane.  The idea was to bring the plane back to the gate, attach the ramp which would allow passengers to have the option to deplane. But I was hoping no one would be interested in doing that so we could get back out again.  But once we got to the gate, a little longer than two hours after boarding, a few passengers wanted to get out of the plane.

8:25 am - Back at the gate. March 21st, 2012

Event 4: What does the rule say about sitting on the tarmac? The rule indicates a plane can stay more than 2 hours out if there is food and water. In theory, we could have stayed out in the tarmac. And the second problem is that the flight crew and the gate crew were confused about how to implement the rule. As some of the passengers were standing up and getting ready to deplane, the gate crew walks in the plane and informed the flight crew that all passengers would have to deplane.  The flight crew did not have the same comprehension of the law.  They talked briefly and then the announcement was made that everyone should deplane.  Now we are talking about a minimum delay of 30 minutes for people to deplane, then scatter around the gate area, and then board again.  This means I’m now officially missing my connecting flight to DC.

8:38 am - Deplaned and back inside the terminal. Eugene, March 12th, 2012

I used the back to the terminal time to call my travel agent. I found out that the later flights from San Francisco to DC (1pm and 4pm flights) had available seats. But my travel agent could not do anything about my reservation. It was under United airlines control at this point, since I had already checked in.

Event 5: Springbreak! During the conversation with my travel agent, he reminds me that all flights leaving Eugene were full. This was a Wednesday, and there were no seats available until Monday, next week. This puts an extra pressure on making this flight work, and in future decisions made by United.

Event 6: Chaos at the United reservations phone system. I tried calling United reservations, but it was impossible to get to talk to anyone. All you hear are the “robot” pre-recorded menu system and eventually it hangs up on you unless you trick it to get an agent to talk to you. But then, it will take a long, long time to get someone. At least I learned the short cut to get someone before going through too many loops, and before it hangs up on me. They keep changing the menus, so you need to make a few tries before tricking it for an agent. Anyway, if you have called United reservations within the last month or so you will have heard:

Thanks for calling United Airlines. We are experiencing high call volumes. If your call can wait, please try us again later…

Incidentally, I just received communication from United indicating that this is due to their last phase on the Continental / United merge. They indicated they are improving the systems and hiring new staff to operate calling centers. This reminds me of the time I was “stuck” in Honolulu due to an earthquake that closed the airport and United’s calling center was located in India. Thank goodness that is no longer the case, but I digress.

Back to Eugene, the gate staff were trying to deal with things the best way possible. But they were inevitably getting stressed out with the people inquiring about their connecting flights. I’ve seen this type of stress on airline gate and check in staff too many times. So I relied on the United app on the I-phone for updates on the status of this flight and the connecting flight.

The gate staff worked as fast as they could and soon we were re-boarding. According to the time I took the photo below, we were boarding again at 8:49 am (I took this picture just before getting to my seat).

8:49 am - Boarding the plane again. Eugene, March 12th, 2012

The plane was refueled and everyone boarded quickly. But it took a while for us to get to the de-icing line, and at 9:44 we were still waiting. Now we were third on the line. Yes, we lost time and two spots on the de-icing line during the back to the terminal and re-boarding maneuver, so we became last again as two new flights were getting ready to leave Eugene. But I’m okay, as during this ordeal United had re-booked me to a later flight as I checked on the I-phone United app.  Very handy application, by the way.

9:44am - Third on the de-icing line. Eugene, march 21st, 2012

Event 7: We are back to the slow de-icing process in Eugene airport. We wait. At some point the captain informed us that the de-icing truck had missed a spot on the plane ahead of us and had to return for a touch up, further delaying the already slow process.

At 10:26 am we are finally in position to be de-iced. By this time it has stopped snowing, temperatures went up, it is raining, all of which helps the de-icing process as some snow has already melted.

10:26 am - Ready to be de-iced. Eugene, March 12th, 2012

The de-icing process went very smoothly.

10:30 am - Initiating the de-icing process. Eugene, March 12th, 2012

The de-icing was completed, and I’m checking flight updates on the United App on my I-phone. Now United has automatically re-booked me to a 4pm flight leaving San Francisco and arriving in DC at about 10pm.  Still good enough.  I’m relaxed, knowing that everything will now be okay.

The captain informed us we have been authorized to take off. We taxi to the runway and once there we stop on the take off position.  Instead of taking off, the plane starts moving without revving the engines too much, we go all the extension of the runway, all the way to its end at very slow, taxing, speeds.  Obviously there is a problem.

Event 8: Houston, we have a problem! Engine Problems, that is. Once at the end of the runway, the plane moving very slowly,  the flight attendant gets a call from the flight deck, her body expression summarizes the demeanor of the day so far.  She makes the “OMG” expression, puts her hand on her face, bends down in a clear state of disbelief. By now we all know something is going wrong. A moment later the first officer informed us that when we were ready for take off a malfunction light came on indicating the right engine was not mechanically satisfactory for taking off.  The plane is taxied back to the terminal.

11:39 pm - Back at the terminal. Eugene, March 21st, 2012

Event 9. Flight not canceled jail. Once back at the terminal, total chaos between passengers and gate staff and flight crew. Misinformation is the name of the game. Once a flight is canceled, you can start working on alternatives.  But when it is not canceled in the system, you can only set up “stand by” positions. And the only people who can do this are the people at the gate. But the gate staff said they would not work with passengers until further information is available.  But they were informing us that the flight was canceled per flight crew indication. However, the United system did not recognize the flight as canceled.

Event 10. The flight duty period to expire (crew operation time). The flight crew had checked in at about 5:00am.  I read into the FAA requirements, this is a very complex rule, as it involves circadian times, how much rest the crew had before they checked in for this flight (when was it that they checkout of their last flight, and how long was that previous shift), and exceptional circumstances, and other factors that are at the discretion of the captain.  In any case, United staff informed us that this crew would not be able to fly this plane in the time they approximated would be needed to fix the plane, and the time the fixed plane would be expected to land in San Francisco.

But remember, it is  Springbreak and all flights were booked from Wednesday all the way to next Monday.  So we either flew in this plane or we should forget about leaving Eugene. My travel agent mentioned cancelling my trip to DC as the only viable alternative at this point. People were asking for answers that were not given. The standard answer was: The supervisor is trying to get information on what needs to be done.

By now, all passengers started to talk to each other. There were the three teachers going to Beijing for an exchange program. The couple going to Tel Aviv. Another couple going to Ireland. A family going to Maui. And rumors started to appear. One was of another plane coming from either Boise or Salt Lake City, depending on who told you the story. But no information was divulged to passengers. What a mess!

Event 11. 2:00pm, finally some official news!  An announcement of a new flight Eugene – San Francisco was created. The official story was that a plane was going to come from Salt Lake City.  Everyone was invited to come downstairs for the re-booking on this new flight.  Meanwhile, I had been able to connect with the United reservations system, after about 30 minutes of wait time. Instead of waiting on the check in line, I was able to re-book my flight and my connection from San Francisco to DC via telephone.  The agent was extremely helpful, she tried everything, and settled on a flight that would go Eugene to Portland, then Toronto and from there to DC. Before she would close this deal, the new Eugene – San Francisco flight was entered on the system. So she was able to book me on this new flight, and from there the red-eye flight from San Francisco arriving in DC at 6:59 am. On this red-eye flight my seat was a middle seat, on the back of the plane…

So at 3:00 pm I got my new boarding passes and I finally had a chance to sit down to eat something. I went to the restaurant, had a nice meal, turned my computer on and found some time to work.

3:07 pm View of the airport courtyard from my table at the restaurant. Eugene.

At 4:30 pm I was back at the gate. The flight was scheduled to depart at 5:30pm.  By this time, the snow had melted on the tarmac.

5:10 pm - Tarmac is now free of snow. Eugene Airport, March 21st, 2012

On my way back to the gate I find this other de-icing truck. It is smaller, but I wonder if it could had been put to use.

4:37pm - Another de-icing truck. Eugene Airport, March 21st, 2012

Event 12. The plane from Salt Lake city arrives and misinformation continues. The gate crew informs us that it is the new plane we will be taking. However, it is a smaller plane. The reality is that our plane had been fixed, according to revised information, and the only thing we really needed was a new flight crew. The new crew came on this flight from Salt Lake City.

Event 13. All along, the process for booking and re-booking flights was very slow. That happened because just a few weeks back, another consolidation on the United / Continental merger included their reservations database system.  What I heard from staff is that the “new” system is Continental’s system, which was designed in the 1970’s. Remember the old DOS-based Word Perfect writing editor of the time before Windows? Yes, the new United system requires commands similar to Word Perfect 5.1 or even the DOS system. So all staff had their own hand written cheat sheets for commands. When you re-book flights, you need to know all the tricks of the system to make things happen smoothly. Continental staff were training United staff on how to use this dinosaur, while all of this was going on.

5:10 pm - New shift, gate crew boards the flight. Eugene Airport, March 21st, 2012

However, again, I want to thank everyone for their effort. The gate crew that took over from the one in the morning is much more relaxed. They were not there when hell broke loose, so they take things calmly. Eventually everything works well. The middle person from the three on the picture above is a Continental staff, training the United staff on the “new” system.

Event 14. 5:30 pm, we board our plane, the same plane where everything started this morning. It was reported to us that a mechanic was flown from Portland and had fixed the plane. The new crew was all set. We board the plane at 5:30 pm.

Event 15. At 6:01 pm we are de-iced once again.  By this time, there is mostly water on the plane’s wings. The process goes smoothly this time.

6:01 pm - De-icing once again. Still at the Eugene Airport. March 21st, 2012

And a little bit more than 12 hours of delay and we are finally ready for taking off.

6:14 pm - Finally ready for take off from Eugene Airport

But this time it works. Good bye Eugene airport.

6:17 pm - Finally airborne.

We arrived in San Francisco and when I got to the United Customer service I see the same faces from my Eugene flight. People needed hotels and other necessities. All I wanted was a better seat, something that would not make my life so miserable on the 5 hours flight from San Francisco to Washington.

8:01 pm - At the United Customer Service in the San Francisco Airport.

Eventually I got a better seat. Still a middle seat, but this time it was in the Economy Plus towards the front of the plane.  And I slept rather well, considering the situation. I had called the hotel to guarantee that I had a room to check in when I arrived in the morning. I would need a shower before going to my meeting.

Event 16.  My flight arrived in DC on schedule. I made it to the hotel as people were arriving for the meeting. I checked in, showered, and was ready for my meeting on time. My meeting went very well, and I was surprised by how much I was able to rest on my flight. Mission accomplished! In DC, the weather was sunny and warm, in the 80’s.

Boarding in DC, on my way back to Eugene. Spring weather. DC, March 23rd, 2012

On the following day I left Washington DC at 6pm and was back in Eugene at 10:45pm on March 23rd.  All that snow of two days ago was gone. Except for a few patches here and there.

Back in Eugene, just a few patches of snow are left. March 23rd, Eugene Airport

And by my car in the parking lot, all I could find was an even smaller patch of snow. This was a long post for a long delay.  When flying frequently, we are bound to encounter delays.  Long delays are the rare event. But they happen.  Once I had a 24 hour delay while in Samoa. Not a bad place to have a long delay. Another time I had a 2-day delay in Honolulu. And yet another time a 3-day delay in Orlando, Florida.  All great places to have a delay. This one in Eugene was not a big deal after all.

The last reminder of March 21st's record snow. Eugene Airport, March 23rd, 2012

Airlines and safety seem to be improving, this is good for all travelers. With improved systems and regulations that enforce safety, a delay is usually a price we pay to fly safer. And I’m in favor of more safety, of course.  And once again, I want to thank all the Eugene Airport and the United staff who diligently worked on March 21st to make things happen as smoothly as possible, despite the challenges imposed by the exceptional circumstances.

Cesar

Posted in Random Thoughts, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

One Week (the film): What would you do?

The 2008 film “One Week” starts with the main character, Ben Tyler, sitting across the table from his doctor, as he receives the news that he has gotten a very aggressive form of cancer and needs to immediately start an aggressive treatment. Prognosis? Not good at all.

The Norton Commando of the “One Week” film

Have you ever thought about this? What would you do in one day, one week, or one month if you are told your final day is near?  In this film, Ben Tyler buys a motorcycle and rides it from Toronto to the Canadian west coast.

Great bike, great Canadian landscapes along the way

Before accepting life as a cancer patient, and the downsides that come with the treatment, Ben leaves his family and his fiancee behind and sets of on a self discovery voyage.  Part of this discovery was his realization of how had he settled down so early in his life.  As he wandered from town to town, he was getting a sampler for what he didn’t know he had been missing in life. The bliss of living in the moment was one of those discoveries. Traveling on a motorcycle was the method.

The film provokes your mind to wander so you can make your own realizations along the way. Or at least that is what happened to me. I have had these thoughts before, I’ve contemplated what the end would look like. Here is my take.

One Week

I have tried to understand life. But I have not figured it out, no one has figured it out. Philosophy, science or religion, none of them has provided plausible answers to the fundamental questions regarding life. The various religions that exist offer comfort on promises of various forms of after live.  But even the people with the highest degree of faith cling to what we have here on earth, in our small corner of the Universe. Even if they say otherwise. Because the unknown remains the unknown.

In my case, not having an answer I finally come to a point when I don’t think about it anymore, except as a curiosity item. This has actually been a great and peaceful way to live life. I take every day as a bonus, an extra gift, an added value. And that realization, the now, the living of the moment, is what makes it so nice. I’m grateful for that. Maybe it explains the pleasure I get out of such simple things as in the morning, waking up and tasting that first cup of coffee while planning my day. It is worth getting out of bed for that new beginning.

I have a feeling that when I go I will be going in peace. But if I’m given the opportunity to learn of an approximate deadline, I can see myself taking a motorcycle on a long trip that could last as long as quality of life permits. It will not be taken as a regret for a ride I have not taken; it will be an opportunity for a new and different ride.

In other words, the personal lesson I take from this film is the realization that such prognosis as the one the character in this film received was an opportunity:  It gave Ben Tyler an opportunity to clear the palate and start over.  It may represent one more chance to wake up, change, follow forgotten dreams, and experience life at its fullest. No matter how long this last leg lasts. I don’t believe this is new or an exclusive idea generated by this film, but watching it gave me a good opportunity to express and renew these thoughts.

Two side notes:

Great Film as well!

1. Burt Munro depicted in “The World’s Fastest Indian” movie is attributed to have said: “You live more in five minutes on a bike like this than some people live in a lifetime.” He was referring to the bike he built for the world speed record on motorcycle. He justified his action on the premise that some risks are instrumental in making life worthwhile. This is slightly off the topic, but I thought it would be worth mentioning just in case someone comes along and  comments that riding is a sure ticket to a faster end.

2. Regarding the motorcycle and the location of the “One Week” film:  it is great to have a Norton Commando, such a great motorcycle, on a supporting role along side the beautiful views and landscapes someone can experience when traveling across these vast distances in Canada. Great choices, film director! Makes me feel like going for a ride on those places someday.

That was my take on the film, your view may be completely different. My own view may be different at a new and different point in my life.

But for now, because I don’t know when my end will be, I’m not sitting around and waiting for the inevitable; I’m riding whenever I can.

What are you doing, what makes you enjoy the moment and actualize life?

Thanks for reading.

Cesar

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High Pass, Snow, Low Pass

Finally I can report here the first ride of the year.  And what a ride it was, what a great way to start the new riding season!

The end of the line? Somewhere on Prairie Mt area. March 4th, 2012

Before the weekend I had checked the weather forecast and those wise people had indicated a dry weekend, and Sunday temperatures would get to the 60’s. My plan for the weekend included soccer Saturday, the Carnaval party in the evening, and Sunday I would wash the Triumph (still had the mud from the last ride of 2011 in December) then take it for a spin, come back home, take care of the yard, then barbecue.

In retrospect, the Sunday portion was a bit ambitious if I had anticipated how late I would stay at the Cozmic Pizza’s Carnaval.  I woke up late Sunday and my plans started changing. What about just a small spin on the Triumph? Maybe just stay home and enjoy the day off? In the middle of these negotiations Doug calls:

Are you up for a ride? Doug asked.

Huh… yes? I replied, with a lot of uncertainty in my own mind.

Great, I will be by your house at 10:15

What kind of ride?  (In other words, I was not sure to what I had just signed up to do!)

Dirt. Riley wants to explore the Prairie Mt area.

OK, I will get the Yamaha ready.

Oh well, a decision had been made.  I completely forgot about all the other plans I was debating with myself.  The Triumph would stay behind. I got into action mode, had less than two hours to dig the Yamaha from the back of the garage, check fluids, air up the tires, find my riding gear that was all scattered and put away since last year’s last ride, fill up the bike’s tank and the auxiliary tank, charge camera batteries, find SD cards that had space for video. And oh yes, have some breakfast and be ready.

The Yamaha ready for action. March 4th, 2012

Doug is very punctual.  On a couple of occasions he has left for a ride without me because I was, uh, slightly late. Like 30 minutes late is too much for him. He would go crazy in Brazil, I can only imagine. But I digress.  I got it all ready as the clock turned to 10:15am and Doug, as expected, showed up on the dot. The plan was to meet Riley at the Chevron in Junction City at 11:00am. We had plenty of time to get there from my house.

The bikes at the Chevron in Junction City. March 4th, 2012

We arrived early enough that I had time to cross the street and get some Hot Cocoa at the Dari Mart. Good to warm up my hands.

Dairy Mart's Hot Cocoa. March 2012

Doug had been talking to me about his recent rides with Riley. They already have a couple of rides on their belt this year. I had heard about Riley before, he is a local legend. Among the many aspects about Riley and his involvement with motorcycles, what I know first hand started when I arrived in Eugene and I met him as the chief mechanic at the local BMW dealer, where I bought my BMW Dakar in 2006. Then he retired from that job and now I hear he works almost exclusively as a consultant or mechanic for old school BMWs. Riley arrived in time to fill his bike’s tank and be ready to ride at 11:00am sharp.

Riley and his tricked out KLR 650. March 4th, 2012

2011 seemed like the year where the entire staff at the local BMW dealer has changed over, compared to the time I first met them in 2006.  The former crew always talked fondly and respectfully about Riley, specially about his knowledge of the old BMWs and about his dirt riding ability. He doesn’t walk very well, they would say, but once he starts riding, get out of the way.  I was looking forward to this ride, for the opportunity to ride with a local, if not statewide (or even beyond) legend.  His motorcycle is not a regular KLR.  He has done more modifications to it than I would know how to start explaining. The most obvious ones you can see right away. Tank, header and exhaust. But he has worked in its motor as well. In other words, don’t be fooled by his appearance or his bike. He is not only an experienced but he is also a fast dirt rider.

The ride's planning committee. March 4th, 2012

First thing Riley said was:

If you don’t mind, I will lead

Doug gladly accepted it.  And I did not even think it would be any different. Usually I don’t mind following, especially following guys who ride faster than me. That’s the way it should be, in my mind.  I’m happy to hang back and not worry about where to go next. Riley reported the plan:  we would try High Pass road and come down to 36 from there. I was happy to just be riding but if my opinion counted I would say that was a great plan.  The last time I had taken the Yamaha for a spin, last September, that’s exactly where I had taken it to and I had to turn around because of road closures (not snow related).

Riley then turned his attention to me and asked:

What’s the range on that thing?

With the auxiliary tank, 180 miles, I replied. Although, in reality, I knew with the type of riding we were going to do, it would be more like 150 miles, being optimistic and all.  But I did not want him to worry about it. I had a feeling we would not be going too far.

Good man, Riley replied.

The thought of snow on the planned route came to my mind, but I said nothing. From my office I can see a few hills on the northeast side of town and I could clearly see new fresh snow down to the 1,500ft level this last week. If not lower. But hey, this is an adventure and I’m not riding alone, so let’s make it more interesting.

The weather forecast had mentioned the sun would be out at some point. But as we set off, the clouds were hanging low above us.

Let’s get going, lets go above the clouds, Riley proclaimed. And we were off.

The riding order was Riley, Doug, and then me, which remained to the end of the ride when we arrived at the Low Pass Rd (Hwy. 36).  There was no dust so we were riding close enough from each other that I kept visual contact with Riley and could follow his signals. Like when he pointed out the road sign that read “end of pavement” so we would get ready for the action. Once we hit dirt, we soon started climbing and were at the cloud level in no time. Or in the fog.

In the fog. High Pass rd. March 4th 2012

I was having a blast, these guys were riding at a good clip, as you can see from this video. The road conditions were OK.  Not dry, but the mud was not deep, and most of the wet areas had enough gravel to maintain good traction. But I could see snow accumulated here and there on the sides of the road.  We were getting close to the snow level, as you can see at the end of this 3 minute video.

We continued climbing a few more miles and soon we were at the snow level.  The roads were still rideable, and it was still fun to ride as this short video demonstrates.

But it was obvious this would change if we kept going up the mountain. Soon enough Riley stopped. The planning committee got together and Riley gave us a new direction.

The planning committee gets together to review the riding plans. Somewhere at the now level, March 4th, 2012

Someone had been there before us and spent enough time at this juncture to build a snow man (see on the lower left on the picture below).  That road going up on the snow was the direction we had planned to go, by the way.

The snowed in road and the snow man. March 2012

The new plan was to go down past the Hult Pond, get on Lake Creek rd and find our way to the Prairie Mountain Range road (at least that’s what I understood from their conversation). Here is Hult Pond, picture taken by the GoPro camera. Rather nice looking in such a windless day.

Hult Pond. March 4th, 2012

And here is the pond’s dam, with a fish ladder.

Hult Pond's dam. March 4th, 2012

Soon we were in a nice valley. I think this is Lake Creek Rd.  I’m not completely sure about where we were.

Lake Creek Rd., I presume. March 4th, 2012

Soon enough we were climbing again.  Once again, it is a blast to ride with these guys.  They move fast.  But soon we started seeing snow again.

And then we got to this.

Riley finally stopped when we hit a patch of road without snow and another meeting took place.

Another meeting. Somewhere at the snow level. March 4th 2012

This is what the road looked liked from there.

The end of the line. March 4th, 2012

We tried to continue a bit further, but it became obvious that it was not a good idea.  There would be two more miles of this.

Snow on the wheel of the Yamaha. March 4th, 2012

I have to say I was having plenty of fun on this ride. Why spoil it with yet more fun? The views were great from there. We had made it to above the clouds.

Above the clouds, at the snow. March 4th, 2012

We turned the bikes around and initiated our descent.

Nice views before turning back down. March 4th, 2012

We tried a few other routes before completely giving up on the ride.

Some Creek, somewhere. March 4th 2012

A final meeting and we were done.

Final Meeting. March 4th, 2012

We made it to Low Pass.  By the way, Low Pass and High Pass were two roads that connected Junction City and Eugene to the coast. Low Pass is mostly Hwy 36 today. That’s before Hwy 126 existed.

Low Pass by Hwy 36. March 4th, 2012

Once there, the story telling and bench racing started. It was great to have had a chance to ride with Riley.  It is always a pleasure to ride with Doug.  There was mention of future rides, so I won’t be surprised to get another call from Doug in the near future about plans to go on rides with Riley.

Bench Racing. Low Pass, March 4th, 2012

The Yamaha had its share of abuse. But it can take it.

Mud everywhere. March 4th 2012

We said our good byes and I took Hwy 36, I mean Low Pass Rd, straight back to Northwest Expressway and in no time I was home.

Back home. March 4th, 2012

All in all a memorable first ride of the season.  It could not be much better than this. It was 96 miles (155 km) in good company, on great roads, at a nice pace, and with just enough challenges to make it special.

96 miles to mark the beginning of a new riding season. March 4th 2012

That’s it. Now, what’s next?

Cesar

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