The F800GS – Test Ride and Review

I’ve taken an F800GS out for a test ride at three different opportunities.  Each time I ride it, I like it better.  I see it as the perfect upgrade for the F650GS Dakar.  The first time I took one out for a ride was a 2009 model in September 2009.

Similar to my Dakar, this bike offers a nice riding position.  Both the F800GS and my F650GS Dakar have Rotax made engines. But that is where the similarities end. The F800GS has a smooth and linear acceleration, great torque at low RPM. It sounds great, and the vibrations are minimal.  After I returned the F800GS back to the dealer and picked up my Dakar to ride it back home, well, what a difference. I had learned how much have I been missing.  My Dakar was never the same since that time.

In 2010 BMW incorporated a few changes to the yellow or gray 2008 and 2009 model years.  Nothing substantial. As usual, BMW makes changes that are not officially announced. The 2010 and 2011 bikes were offered in orange…

…or white.

Well, so I had to take the F800GS for another test.  After all, Orange could be a faster color, right?

This demonstrator was equipped with an Akropovic slip-on exhaust.

It sounded even better than the one I tested last year!  And it felt smoother than the gray one as well.  One of the complaints people have had about this bike is the surge on acceleration when coming out of a stop when applying a light twist action of the throttle, or when trying to cruise at low speeds – a by-product of fuel injection, designed to run lean to comply with environmental legislation. Some claim an aftermarket exhaust improves it.  Others have updated the fuel map on the bike’s computer, with marginal changes to this issue.  And there are a few others who have used a plug-in product that tricks the bike into sensing ambient temperature a few degrees colder than it actually is, tricking the fuel system into delivering a slightly richer mixture across the spectrum. Most owners claim this is the real solution to the surge.

One of the F800GS’s major flaws, which is only applicable to someone who plans to use this bike on serious off-road situations, is that it lacks a more dirt oriented suspension. It seems like this is one problem across the spectrum of the BMW line up.  The reality is that only very few people ever take this bike off road.  So the minority who wants to ride it off-road, seriously, need to invest on suspension upgrades.

Would I buy this bike? Most definitely. This bike is on my short list of candidates to be added to my garage.  Specifically, I see it as an update to the Dakar.

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Hooligan for a Day

2006 BMW 650 GS Dakar

“Let’s go for a ride!” advertised our local BMW motorcycle dealer.  They organized in early August a day-ride called “Conquer the Cascades” which would run on a dirt road on a ridge of the Cascade Mountains starting just south of Oakridge, OR.  After a few miles going south it would take another road going east through valleys and mountain sides in the direction of Summit Lake and Crescent Lake, ending in Crescent, OR.  A total of about 100 miles of fun dirt roads! Riders met at a park by the Willamette river, just outside Oakridge.  I rode my 2006 BMW Dakar to the event.

Upon arriving at the gathering place I took a look at all bikes taking place on the ride: very few BMW 1200 GS bikes were there.  I was expecting more of those bikes, which would translate into a slow ride.  If that was the case, I could jump to the front and be dust free without having to push on the speed.

Thumpers Gallore

But no, the story would be different. Most people showed up with their thumpers (single-cylinder dirt or dual sport bikes).  There were the infamous XR650R’s, the DR650’s and DR400’s, a couple of Y450F’s, a KLR or two, basically all the numbers and letter codes associated with Honda, Suzuki, Kawazaki and Yamaha thumpers.  There was another Dakar like mine, an F800GS, and a X-Challenge.  There was also a Girlie Tiger and a couple of KTM 950 Adventures.  And the rarity prize went to a Honda Transalp.

“Everyone should ride their own ride” is an important motto.  I enjoy riding on my own pace, in the zone, my zone, concentrated but relaxed, at the upper bands of my comfort zone. And of course, when talking about dirt riding, being dust free is a must! It is an art to get that piece of mind when riding with large groups, especially when you don’t know the other riders and they don’t know you.  In group rides I don’t want my natural pace to be faster than the pace of the guy ahead of me.  Or slower than they guy behind me.  In group rides, the ideal is to find the order in which everyone is in their zone and having the most fun. Which means faster riders towards the front, slower guys towards the back. The challenge is to get this sorted along the way.

The Girlie Tiger and the Two KTMs

Waking me up from my conjectures, the organizers gave us the instructions.  The ride would start with a climb up to the beginning of the ridge on one-lane paved roads.  From there we would hit gravel, two-track, some technical segments, then gravel again before hitting Summit Lake.  From Summit Lake we would get on some sandy and rocky tracks until reaching Crescent Lake and from there a short burst on paved roads to Manley’s pub in Crescent, for that rewarding cold beer.  And then the important final words: “…and remember: this is not a race”.

Off we went.  I started my bike and immediately jumped to the front behind the red X650R

The TransAlp on the right

who I believed would lead us on this ride.  So I’m second and as soon as we leave the parking area the other X650R passed me. So now I’m third but not too worried, as we are taking a paved road first – no dust.  We start the climb on the one-laner, and I’m assuming we will take this slowly before hitting the point where real ride starts: the gravel! Nope, I’m on the second curve of that road and I can’t see the 650Rs anymore.  They are gone!  I speed up but with no intentions nor hopes of catching them up.  They are real hooligans.  I’m on my Sunday ride.

As I’m admiring the situation that is forming, or disappearing ahead of me, I hear this thumping sound to my left, I check my mirrors and they are full of green barkbusters.  Some guy on a DR650 is trying to pass me on a tight left hand curve.  I slowed down slightly and motioned him to pass me. Too late, it seemed, as he decided to tuck in behind me – “it was too tight” he later explained to me. I could have let him by on the next straight section. Instead, I decided to solve the problem by cranking up a notch and making that 650 Rotax motor in my BMW go through its paces.  That 650 single-cylinder is one thing on the 3K RPM range.  It is another between 5 and 7K RPMs.  With only a short 2K range of real power, though, and a widely spaced five-speed gearbox, you get to work it out to make it go fast while going up a hill with curves every hundred yards or less.  And working it out I managed to keep those green barkbusters at bay.  I actually gained distance on him and whenever I didn’t see him for a while I’d slow down.  As soon as I would see him peeking out from behind the trees on another curve, I would crank it up again. Rinse, repeat.

I was pushing the envelope, expanding the band of my comfort zone.  It was rather unsettling to feel my bike’s well used up Metzeler Karoo knobby rear tire skipping and fighting for grip under acceleration on a few corners.  But it was great excitement as well. I was stoked by how the machine was keeping things composed. At the end of the day I wanted to hug that Dakar.  And I had a totally new take on pavement riding, something I’m still learning to do, as I mostly ride off-pavement.

Several miles on this fast pace, though, and I wanted to take a break. I could not wait to get on the dirt part of the ride. We finally reached a point where the two X650Rs were waiting for the rest of the group.  When I learned there was still going to be several more miles of pavement before hitting dirt, I decided to let those hooligans go ahead of me.  I settled on a nice pace behind an X-Challenge and ahead of an F800GS.

Eventually everyone gathered at the end of the paved section. From that point forward it would be dirt only. Leadership changed, and someone on a DR400 led the way, followed closely by a KLR and one of the X650Rs. As I was fumbling with disabling my ABS (it requires to start the bike pressing the ABS switch for a few seconds) a few people jumped ahead of me, including that DR650 (with those green bark-busters), the X-Challenge and the F800GS.

I took off right behind the F800GS and in less than a mile I had passed him. Next was the X-Challenge, followed by the DR650 and its green barkbusters. I was in my element. Now I had a few miles of clear air and was enjoying a good pace. Then I hit the dust again and it was coming from the three leaders riding as a closed pack, generating a thick dust.  I tried to get close to them, but obviously would not be able to pass that tight group.  So I slowed down to get clear of their dust.  I checked my GPS and made a decision: “At the next time the front pack stops,

At the Manley's pub

I will pass them and won’t stop until I get to Manley’s pub!” I was getting thirsty anyway. A few miles later they stopped at an intersection and I went by them. I cranked a notch up and was having a blast on a two-track road. After a while on that road I saw this off-shoot to the left, on a very vertical and technical climb and assumed it would not be the way, and kept going without checking my GPS.  A mistake. All of a sudden the road ended! I turned around, tail down, and went back to that off-shoot to the left.  When I get there a few bikes were gathered, waiting at the intersection.  I went past them without stopping and climbed that steep hill with anger.

Brewer's Union, Oakridge, OR

From that time on, I was leading this smaller pack of bikes, following my GPS and stopping at every intersection to wait for whom ever was behind me and make sure they were going the right way.  The Tiger and one of the KTMs were following me closely. At one point when I was waiting for them at an intersection, they blew past me without stopping.  And that, my friends, turned this ride into a race. Well, not really.  But I cranked up a second notch, passed them back and made sure they stayed behind me.  That Dakar was power sliding through gravel corners! I had a blast all the way to Manley’s restaurant.

On the way back home, at a much slower pace, some of us stopped for a beer at a local brewery in Oakridge.  The Dakar earned my respect on this ride! I had never pushed that bike to its limits. When it was asked to step up to the plate, it delivered with plenty to spare, both on pavement and off pavement.  Although this bike is mostly known for round-the-world adventures, it showed that day that it can deliver a more aggressive performance. It deserved being called “Dakar” that day. And I, well, I was a Hooligan for a day!

Cesar

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The 2010 BMW R1200GS – Test Ride and Review

This bike has been the icon of Adventure Riding.  Credit has to be given to BMW who accepted the challenge from the producers of the Long Way Round and the Long Way Down.  According to their books, Charlie Boorman and Ewan McGregor where undecided as to what bike to take on their round the world adventure.  They were in between two bikes on their first adventure: the BMW R1150GSA and the KTM 950 Adventure.  After testing both bikes, and going back and forth on the decision process, Charlie convinced Ewan that the KTM was the bike for the job.  When Ewan accepted that, and they approached KTM, KTM backed out of the deal.  They went back to BMW who promptly accepted the deal and provided the bikes for the now famous adventure.  Once could say: and the rest is history.  Indeed, the TV series and books reached the right crowd at the right time and this bike became the synonym of adventure riding.

Of course, the LWR and LWD were not what put the GS (Gelande Strasse – all roads) bikes on the map.  It has had its success stories on the Dakar races as well several years before their adventure.  These bikes created a niche in the motorcycle market that has been growing steadily for many years.   The 1200GS is BMW’s best seller motorcycle.

This bike uses the venerable boxer engine. The twin-cylinder boxer engine has a long history of applications in the BMW motorcycle line up, and has acquired and carried tradition through the years. It has evolved from an air cooled to an oil cooled engine and has grown in displacement along the years.

The 2010 model I tested has the latest iteration of the 1200cc motor, producing 110HP. What gets it there is a new dual over head cam (DOHC) engine. It accelerates very smoothly and you have no questions about its high torque and power levels. Despite the bike’s weight, when it is in motion it feels very balanced. It turns in well and keeps you on the corner at the lean angle you want.

But you always have the feeling you are riding a large machine. But its size and bulk has its followers. It has been the only real choice for a do-it-all bike for many years. Do you want to take your girlfriend on an adventure ride?  Go camping with her, take the long way to get there, find some gravel on the way, and manage to take the kitchen sink with you? Well, that is the bike.

Now it has competition from several other manufacturers. The machine that appears to more closely offer similar features is the Yamaha Super Tenere. It is back to the market with a 1200 displacement. Ducati has produced the Multistrada, also with a 1200 displacement.  Moto Guzzi has the Stelvio, also at 1200cc.  And Triumph is rumored to be designing a 1200 triple.

Up until now, BMW has done well with this bike and this motor.  It has had a very loyal following.  But it may just be time for BMW to offer a more radical product for this market.  This engine is at its limit with respect to environmental requirements. I’ve been hearing talks for w few years already that a water cooled version of this boxer engine, to cope with these more stringent environmental requirements is in the works.

BMW has been expanding its line up of motors by offering bikes with the 650 single cylinder Rotax motor in the nineties, the 650 and 800cc parallel twin Rotax motors after 2007, the four-inline on the S1000RR in 2010, and the six cylinder K1,600GT in 2011. But they have not touched the 1,200 boxer-based line up. Yet. Let’s see what the water cooled version will look like.

Would I buy it? If I really need to go adventure riding two-up, then the R1200GS will be my bike of choice. Otherwise, I’ll stick with bikes with less bulk and weight.  It didn’t help I test rode it back to back with the F800GS, my all time favorite bike so far.

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The Steens 2010

A quick Google search for the word “Steens” will produce interesting one-sentence descriptors of Oregon’s Steens Mountain:

“About as far from any populated place as you can get in the Lower 48 States about says it for Oregon’s remote Steens Mountain.”

“Referred to as the crown jewel of Oregon, Steens Mountain rises dramatically above the Alvord desert (…)”

“Steens Mountain is a large fault-block mountain in the southeastern part of the U.S. state of Oregon.”

“Steens Mountain (…) is one of Oregon’s most treasured landmarks.”

John Hicks, a non riding friend of mine, described it in one word: Powerful! And that word made sense to me.

I returned to the Steens in September of 2010. I had been there in June 2006 (please check the June 2006 archive) and since that time I’ve been thinking of returning to that magical place.

This time I went with a different group of riders, and I was able to spend more time exploring the area.

Just a few teaser pictures and videos follow:

Getting to the Steens via Fandango Road.

What it looks like riding it.

The Steens Mountain Loop, starting and ending just outside Frenchglen, Oregon.

The famous Kiger Gorge

Clouds bring a dose of drama to the scene

Fresh Snow on the the Steens Loop.

Southeast of Fields, OR, still in that area, Trout Creek Mountain:

Riding in the Trout Creek Mountain Area:

South of Fields, OR, Domingo Pass:

In the direction of the Nevada border:

Going north again, the Long Draw:

Hawk Valley

Riding on Hawk Valley (fun in the water)

Funnel Canyon

Catlow Valley

The Bike:

This is a great area to ride. I strongly recommend!

Cesar

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2010 Ducati Multistrada 1200 – Test Ride and Review

Fantastic. A Ferrari of motorcycles. I don’t know how to best describe this bike.  Except that it is really a great bike.  My bias on motorcycles is that I like bikes that offer upright riding positions.  And I like motorcycles that have an enduro or adventure appearance. This Ducati offers that.  However, it has a super bike soul. It offers an incredible experience. I test rode it with a friend of mine who mentioned his arms wanted to be dislocated from the sockets under acceleration. Yes, this happens because you are riding a powerful motorcycle sitting in an upright position.

This bike has four pre-set fueling maps (urban, enduro, touring and sport) that are actuated by a button. A rider can change the performance of this bike on the fly! The urban and enduro mode offer more gradual acceleration and a maximum power output of 100hp.  The touring and sport mode differ from each other in terms of how gradually the bike accelerates, and they both will take you to the maximum power the bike delivers (specs indicate 150hp).  These four modes also manage different levels of traction control and ABS functions.

I tested this bike together with an F800GS. Riding them back to back helped understand a few of the characteristics of each one.  The Ducati carves the curves with ease, accelerates as faster is better, and feels planted but light at all times and all speeds.

The Ducati is really meant to be ridden fast.  There is no cruising aptitude in its soul.  The engine won’t sound “round” until you hit regions to the north of a 4,000 RPM level. But once it gets there, my friends, it sings! While the BMW F800GS could be ridden in 6th gear at any speed about 50mph and accelerate well out of it, the Ducati requires a more careful gearing management to keep the engine on its sweet spot.  Nothing wrong with that – I like the idea of working through the gears.

The problem? Yes, everything has a down side.  Problem number 1 is that this bike wants to be ridden fast.  When you least expect, you are effortlessly riding at 80mph.  Or 100mph. Or… Problem number 2 is that when the engine is not on its sweet spot, it really surges and sounds as it is not happy.  Like a race engine would sound.  I hear Ducati has re-designed its fueling map and it is offering this upgrade to all 2010 models.  I guess I will have to try it again when this has been consolidated.

Would I buy it? Yes. But only if the revised fuel program will really allow the engine to operate smoothly at lower RPMs. Or if I become a true hooligan.

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1,000 miles of Oregon dirt (OBDR)

It has been a long time coming.  Being a motorcycle rider, with a dirt bias, living in Oregon, riding the Oregon Back Country Discovery Route (OBDR) is a natural consequence. I thought about it for too long, and it finally became a reality in July 2010. Making it solo was the main plan.  And the most exciting and motivating factor as well. I purchased the official maps of the four routes that compose the Oregon Back Country Discovery Route and connected the four routes into a loop of about 1,000 miles.

The OBDR routes were designed by people who love driving or riding off pavement in roads that go through beautiful areas and points of interest in Oregon, using the road less traveled as the connecting element.  The routes were once officially designated as an official route, with signs and all the good stuff. Well, a few years back environmentalists managed via a law suit to require the state to eliminate all signs that would make these routes as official routes.  So now the OBDR lives in the maps you can purchase from the Oregon Off-Highway Vehicle Association.

Route 3 goes in the north/south direction, on the Cascade range, from Sisters all the way to the border with California.

Roads are mostly two-tracks, all doable on a regular dual-sport motorcycle or high clearance vehicle.

Only thing I recommend on this part of the route is to observe the time of the year. Two main factors: snow in late Spring early summer. And mosquitoes right after snow has melted. If you are doing the entire loop, as I proposed here, be aware that the south portions of Route 5 can be really hot in August. Here is a video of the snow. I had to detour from this route because the snow became impassable at one point.

Because of the detour, I was slowed down. I spent the night halfway on this route.  The next day, continuing south I made it to Crescent Lake. There I connected to the Route 2 that runs east/west from Crescent Lake to Summer Lake.

This is a short route, but it goes through some lonely roads. But the roads are also the easiest.

Route 2, OBDR. July 2010

At the end of the day I was arriving at Summer Lake.

The beautiful time of the day. Close to Summer Lake. July 2010

The next morning I took Route 5, and now I will be going North.

Route 5. Going North, towards Christmas Valley. July 2010

Route 5 runs in the south/north direction, starting at the California border and going all the way to the border with Washington.  It is the longest and most challenging route.  Route 5 is the real Oregon Back Country Discovery Route, in my opinion.

Route 5 includes areas where the roads are actually a trace of a formerly existing road.  You will go through several private properties and cattle ranches and their respective gates. If you open a gate, make sure you close it!

You will go through a few sandy patches.  Not too much, just enough to keep you honest.

I camped at some point on Route 5, a few miles north of Hwy 20.

Route 5, north of Hwy 20. July 2010

The next morning I continued on Route 5 until I reached Seneca. I spent the night at the Bearcat Motorcycle Resort.

Seneca, OR. July 2010

Here I entered the last leg of the trip. Now I would be traveling west. Route 4 goes east/west, from Seneca to Sisters.

Route 4, OBDR. July 2010.

I traveled on Summit road for a while.

Going from top of mountain to top of mountain.

I made it home by the end of the day. The bottom line is that by connecting the four routes, I made a large loop in the middle of the state.  I rode the loop in five days in the first week of July, 2010.

This was my greatest adventure on a motorcycle.  Rising solo, on unknown terrain, in remote areas made it into such an adventure.  At the same time, I was never more than a day’s ride from home.  This is the beauty of Oregon and this loop.  Plenty of spaces to get lost, with varied types of landscapes and roads, and you are never too far from home, no matter where your home is in Oregon.

Cesar

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BackYard Rides 2010

Time to get those cobwebs moved out of the way. Winter, move over! February can be cold, and wet. But we can get a few dry days… and when that happens, I just get the bike ready for a spin.

As I’m getting to know better the area, I already know places to go – dirt and gravel roads that start in less than 20 miles form my driveway.  One of my destinations in 2010 has become the Roman Nose.

From there I turn around and consider it done! Usually round trip can be anything from 80 to 100 miles.  The Roman Nose is about 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean as the crow flies.  There is the Pacific.

Lots of nice roads around that area.

I’ve done this route a few times as a warm up and practice for the rides I had planned for this year.

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Pine Mountain 2009

Following up on the idea of camping at the Pine Mountain observatory, the usual suspects minus a few, decided to first camp at the Newberry Lakes and then move to Pine Mountain for a night at the observatory.

All accounted.

The next day, moving to Pine Mountain.

Don’t ask, I don’t remember what that was all about. Honyockers? Who knows? Anyway, the magic hour of the day arrived.

Beautiful place for a sunset.

Nice people and a nice moment.

The long and the short is that the next day, when we were scheduled to get the observatory tour, the sky got cloudy – no stars for us. I will need to go back that way.


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Big Freaking Trees

Oregon has a collection of very tall trees.  Their location are usually kept in secret. Why would you ask? Vandalism is the answer.  These large trees have survived natural fires, man made fires, and the logging industry for many, many decades.  But they may quickly succumb to our predatory and destructive nature.  Once can wonder about it as much as they want, it is difficult to understand.  Just recently I heard on the NPR about the discovery of what is supposed to be the tallest tree in Oregon.  The location given? Vaguely in the area of the Rogue river.  The reporter was clear on the intention to be unclear about reporting the exact location in order to preserve the tree from vandalism. His words, not mine.

Anyway, one of my riding friends had heard of a set of tall trees in the Cascades, not far north from Marcola, close to the Crabtree Lake.  So let’s go check it out.  We met at the Tipi Retreat and proceeded from there.  The Dakar was selected for the job, since there would be several miles of pavement to get there.

Always a reminder of the nice views we have anywhere in this state.

We found the Crabtree Lake

And from there we found a group of the largest trees in Oregon.  Including the largest one we found in the area. You see how wide the trunk is when you compare it to my friends Ken and Suzanne.

The lake is nice too. One more photo of the lake.

And it is a nice day trip from Eugene.

Thanks for reading.

 

 

 

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Metolius Oregon 2009

I had heard of the Metolius river for a while, had ridden past the sign on US 20 a few times.  It is time to take a look at it. Let’s try the WR250R on a real adventure.

I met with friends and we camped by the Metolius River.  I took the WR250R with me.

Besides riding in the area around the Metolius, I also wanted to check out the Pine Mountain Observatory as a possible area for a group ride with a night at the observatory as an added bonus.

On top of Pine Mountain

One of the three domes of the observatory.  Volunteers from the University of Oregon and amateur astronomers offer a night view of the sky, with explanations, during summer weekend nights.

A few curiosities along the way. Dry days…

Local entertainment options.

Beer ready!

And with a view.

Can’t blame him (her) for lack of creativity.

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